Our Navajo 4X4 driver, stopped at the southern edge of the dunes to deflate all four tires. Now, with more traction, we proceeded to cross desert with no road, no tire tracks. Only a Navajo would know where to go. No GPS here. The van churned it's way through the deep soft sand. We came to an abandoned uranium mining trail and started to climb the narrow windy slickrock road, for miles and miles. Few people get to the top and see the massive mesas and buttes below. One of the all time great views of the American West, and we were just in time for the deep shadows of magnificent afternoon light…